45 Days!

Today we hit our 45 day milestone – notionally half way through the trip. But we’re nowhere near half way in terms of distance so maybe we’re going to be a bit longer than our 90 day-ish timeframe… (Management 101: one requires an actual plan to achieve an objective – but avoiding axioms is largely the point of our trip). We’ve been sleeping in tents and sleeping bags (except one night), lighting fires/braais most nights to cook, making lunch on the back of the car every day, drinking UHT milk and instant coffee, handwashing clothes, smelling really bad etc. etc. for a loooong time…

Today Oliver kicked the DVD video screen in a fit of rage. It is now kaput so he’s going to have to find another way to entertain himself for 45+ days – oh boy… If the other screen (in front of Hugo) breaks we’ll be making an emergency plea for a replacement North American car DVD player (we only have Region 1 DVDs with us, just to complicate things). A great time for Oliver to learn about heeding explicit parental warnings – and the disastrous consequences of not doing so.

We headed to Zambia on Sunday morning across the border at Kuzungula, Botswana. What a zoo. The ferry that took us over was a lively, rickety affair, complete with apparently emigrating goats and chickens. Upon arrival to Zambia we were faced with the most outrageous bureaucracy I have ever witnessed. Everyone wanted money and a permit for this and that. The police, immigration, environmental affairs, insurance, tourism department, vehicle licensing, customs, customs handlers all wanted a piece of me – and they took me for $350 and 3 hours of my life. Pay US $ for this, only Kwacha for that, exact change only for this, etc. etc. They even hit me up for a big “carbon tax” on the car (Zambia, known for its progressive policies) which I’m sure only visiting tourists pay. The policeman with his office in an old shipping container whom I had to pay $5 to for some permit or other was doing some form of exercise on his head on the floor as we transacted. I left with 11 different receipts and permits, and 4 little plastic reflectors for the car (another “legal” requirement) which cost me another $20.

We spent this morning at Victoria Falls, on the Zambian side this time. Absolutely amazing… The walk around the falls is crazy – immense amounts of perma-rain from the falls, no barriers and 600 ft drops. The place wouldn’t be legal on any other continent and I have to admit I was concerned for my kids’ survival. So laissez-faire is it that there’s even a sign saying “Walking across the lip of the falls? Beware of sudden water surges. By Management”. African Health and Safety.

We spent the rest of the day driving to the far end of Lake Kariba on the Zambian side, to a little town called Siavonga. We’re camped on the lake – and there are crocs and hippos around. The hippos wander through the camp regularly apparently… so the kids are in the roof tent tonight.

I’m getting really annoyed that no one is pressing the LIKE anymore (except you Viv) – so let’s have a concerted effort to let us know you’re reading, ok people? If you don’t want to press LIKE then perhaps you could make a small donation to the new DVD player fund…? 😉